Sopot

One-time stamping ground for the rich and famous, who came from all over the world to sample the casions and the high life in the 1920s and 1930s, Sopot is still a beach resort popular with landlocked Poles, and is increasingly attractive to Westerners - Germans and Swedes in paricular. It has an altogether different atmosphere from its neighbour: the fashionable clothes shops and pubs scattered round Bohaterow Monte Cassino- the main avenue down to the pier- seem light years away from both historic central Gdansk and the industrial grimness of the shipyards.

The pier, constructed in 1928 is the longest wooden pier in Europe. Long sandy beaches stretch away on both sides; on the northern section you can find ranks of bathing huts, some with marvellous 1920s wicker beach chairs for rent. Further north from the pier, there's the Grand Hotel, the Summer Osiecka Theatre and Sfinks - the artistic underground pub and Underground Exhibition Center.

Upper Sopot (where I live), as the western part of town is known, is a wealthy suburb of entrepreneurs, architects and artists. Here and in other residential areas of Sopot, many of houses have a touch of Art Nouveau style to them - you can look out for the turrets built for sunrise viewing. The wild forest in upper Sopot offers lovely walks in the wooded hills around Lysa Gora, where there's a ski track in winter. If you have a little luck you can meet with deers, wild boars or squirrel at the very least.

There is also the famous open-air Opera Lesna in the peaceful hill park, hosting large-scale productions including an International Song Festival in August which includes big names from the Western rock scene alongside homegrown performers. The "Friends of Sopot" hold chamber music concerts every Thursday at Czyzewskiego 12 street in a room where Chopin is said to have played.

SOPOT PUBS

Spatif - the artists' club upstairs at no.54 on the promenade, has eccentrically decadent cabaret tradition -you must look artistic to get in.

Pod Psia i Kocia Lapa - at the middle of Hallera Street, a designer cafe - restaurant favoured by youthful arty types - often Picture Exhibitions